Having had so many days of rain and cold it was soooo nice to pull up in Huanchaco and pitch the tent in a pretty well organised camp site / hostal, ditch the coats and boots and spend three days sitting on the beach doing pretty much nothing. What can I say, it was a great beach, the restaurant near by brought you beers and food so you never had to leave the beach and the hostal was a 100m walk away and did great food. Oh yeah, there was a nearby town (Trujillo) that had some pretty cool cultural stuff so we felt obligated to check that out for about half a day.
The only thing that happened out of the ordinary here was that it was our first experience of someone trying to steal something from us. Fortunately they were unsuccessful, but it did make me feel a bit cross. It happened as we were walking towards the bus station, in the middle of the day, to buy some tickets out. I was holding my purse (very small, with a band that wraps around my wrist) in my hand. Next thing, this guy runs by and I thought at the time, hit me on the arse. I was quite speechless but managed some sign language to indicate my displeasure but when I told Tim about it he pointed out that probably this guy was trying to steal my purse. Nonetheless, it reminded us how careful you have to be as well as how lucky we were that we had come this far without anything serious happening.
We left Huanchaco and still not having had enough of the beach we headed to Mancora (local Peruanas say this is the best beach) and spent another three days sitting on the beach, enjoying the sun, seafood and local cocktails. What can I say, we deserved a break, travelling is hard work!! (I know, I can feel your pity from here!). One day we did feel like it was important to see more than the beach in front of our hostel and so we jumped in a `tuk tuk` type taxi and headed to another local beach and walked back to the hostel at the end of the day.
And other than to say the beaches and people were truly lovely, there isn`t much more that happened in that week.
So, on a hot and sunny afternoon we boarded another bus and made our way to the border and across into Ecuadar, which requires many blogs of its own.
Hope you are all well
Take care
Tim and Tracey
Sunday 31 May 2009
Lima and Huaraz- 3 April 2009
Arrived in Lima at a decent hour, got accosted by taxi drivers at the bus terminal but got lucky - our taxi driver took us to a pretty decent hostel, with helpful staff and not to expensive - this truly never happens! Our time in Lima was really about relaxing, quickly checking out the city and moving on so that is exactly what we did.
Basing ourselves in Miraflores (which is a wee bit nicer than Lima central) we checked out the lovely beach, the nice restaurants and pretty up market shopping centre (even when travelling you do need to spoil yourself sometimes!). Now, many of you may have heard of a website called `couchsurfing` that is essentially a site that brings travellers together through sharing accomdation, meeting up for a drink etc. Whilst we were in Lima we ran into a guy we had met on the nightmarish Ruta 40 trip out of El Chalten who is quite an active member and who had arranged to meet some people in Lima. For us, this was quite a cool experience. That night, we met up with a couple of girls who then took us on to one of their friends housewarming parties, followed by a trip to one of the local nightclubs. The next day we met them again and went to a beach a couple of hours outside of town, which we wouldn`t have even found if we hadn`t met this girl. It was a really good experience and allowed us to see some things we wouldn`t have seen had we just stayed on the `gringo trail`.
Still, after a couple of days, we boarded our night bus and headed off to Huaraz for some walking, trekking, mountains and ultimately lots and lots of rain!!
The thing about Huaraz is that it is known for its amazing scenery and very cool hiking opportunities so we were quite looking forward to this after having been in cities for a while. We arrived early one morning and wandered around town until some local tour guide took pity on us and showed us to an early morning cafe where we could get tea and breakfast. As soon as was reasonable we made contact with someone we had linked with (again through couch surfing) and he was able to give us some local information and showed us to the hostel that was to become our home for the next few days.
Our first day in Huaraz was quite wet and so we wandered about, checked out the town and got some information on what to do and where to go. Day two was also really quite wet so we spent the day hanging around the hostel and updating the blog. Day three dawned wet once again but we optimistically donned our coats and headed out for a day trek to a pretty beautiful spot - Laguna 69, which sits at about 4500m. There were only a few other people there that day (did I mention it was raining?) and although the walk was really tough, particularly being at altitude again, as you came around the final bend the veiw of the lake seriously took your breath away. Out of all these rocks emerged this stunningly blue lake, ice cold and completely untouched by pollution.
As the weather was closing in again we started the walk back and were very lucky to hitch a ride back with a German couple who had hired a taxi to take them out. The true benefit of this must be understood in contrast with the bus ride out. We got there at about 8.30am for the bus that was to leave in about 10 minutes. 30 minutes later the bus was as full as I thought it could get and pulled out. Not long after we started, we stopped to load in several more people and then again to load in a few more and a few more ... Eventually, there were no more people and we started the very slow, very crowded, very smelly 2 hour ride to our destination. To put this into perspective, I thought it might be helpful to give some details. In the back seat of this mini-van (a seat built for 3) were Tim and I, two local lads and one of the boys` sister. Next row, had two women who had obviously just got off the night shift at a greasy spoon cafe (you know, that smell really does linger), a young girl sitting on the floor and finally a mother with her very young baby who, of course, required feeding and a nappy change during the journey. In the third row up, there was an older local couple and a child along with a man perched in the aisle and and older man in the next seat. In the front row, there were three in a seat for two and then in front of them, sitting on the little ledge behind the driver were two other tourists and three locals and standing somehow between all this was the guy who jumps on and off accosting new passengers. Along with the driver, there were another 3 people in the front. Now, keep in mind that all these people had a minimum of at least one backpack each. I think you get the picture ...
Anyway, as I said, the lake was stunning.
The following day, the rain continued and we made a rather sad decision that we really couldn`t spend any more time waiting for the rain to stop and the condition of the treks was such that many of the high passes were closed due to snow and the forecast was not looking good.
And so, yet another night bus, this time, to the ocean!!!!!
More adventures from the ocean soon
Hope you are all well and healthy
take care
Tim and Tracey
Basing ourselves in Miraflores (which is a wee bit nicer than Lima central) we checked out the lovely beach, the nice restaurants and pretty up market shopping centre (even when travelling you do need to spoil yourself sometimes!). Now, many of you may have heard of a website called `couchsurfing` that is essentially a site that brings travellers together through sharing accomdation, meeting up for a drink etc. Whilst we were in Lima we ran into a guy we had met on the nightmarish Ruta 40 trip out of El Chalten who is quite an active member and who had arranged to meet some people in Lima. For us, this was quite a cool experience. That night, we met up with a couple of girls who then took us on to one of their friends housewarming parties, followed by a trip to one of the local nightclubs. The next day we met them again and went to a beach a couple of hours outside of town, which we wouldn`t have even found if we hadn`t met this girl. It was a really good experience and allowed us to see some things we wouldn`t have seen had we just stayed on the `gringo trail`.
Still, after a couple of days, we boarded our night bus and headed off to Huaraz for some walking, trekking, mountains and ultimately lots and lots of rain!!
The thing about Huaraz is that it is known for its amazing scenery and very cool hiking opportunities so we were quite looking forward to this after having been in cities for a while. We arrived early one morning and wandered around town until some local tour guide took pity on us and showed us to an early morning cafe where we could get tea and breakfast. As soon as was reasonable we made contact with someone we had linked with (again through couch surfing) and he was able to give us some local information and showed us to the hostel that was to become our home for the next few days.
Our first day in Huaraz was quite wet and so we wandered about, checked out the town and got some information on what to do and where to go. Day two was also really quite wet so we spent the day hanging around the hostel and updating the blog. Day three dawned wet once again but we optimistically donned our coats and headed out for a day trek to a pretty beautiful spot - Laguna 69, which sits at about 4500m. There were only a few other people there that day (did I mention it was raining?) and although the walk was really tough, particularly being at altitude again, as you came around the final bend the veiw of the lake seriously took your breath away. Out of all these rocks emerged this stunningly blue lake, ice cold and completely untouched by pollution.
As the weather was closing in again we started the walk back and were very lucky to hitch a ride back with a German couple who had hired a taxi to take them out. The true benefit of this must be understood in contrast with the bus ride out. We got there at about 8.30am for the bus that was to leave in about 10 minutes. 30 minutes later the bus was as full as I thought it could get and pulled out. Not long after we started, we stopped to load in several more people and then again to load in a few more and a few more ... Eventually, there were no more people and we started the very slow, very crowded, very smelly 2 hour ride to our destination. To put this into perspective, I thought it might be helpful to give some details. In the back seat of this mini-van (a seat built for 3) were Tim and I, two local lads and one of the boys` sister. Next row, had two women who had obviously just got off the night shift at a greasy spoon cafe (you know, that smell really does linger), a young girl sitting on the floor and finally a mother with her very young baby who, of course, required feeding and a nappy change during the journey. In the third row up, there was an older local couple and a child along with a man perched in the aisle and and older man in the next seat. In the front row, there were three in a seat for two and then in front of them, sitting on the little ledge behind the driver were two other tourists and three locals and standing somehow between all this was the guy who jumps on and off accosting new passengers. Along with the driver, there were another 3 people in the front. Now, keep in mind that all these people had a minimum of at least one backpack each. I think you get the picture ...
Anyway, as I said, the lake was stunning.
The following day, the rain continued and we made a rather sad decision that we really couldn`t spend any more time waiting for the rain to stop and the condition of the treks was such that many of the high passes were closed due to snow and the forecast was not looking good.
And so, yet another night bus, this time, to the ocean!!!!!
More adventures from the ocean soon
Hope you are all well and healthy
take care
Tim and Tracey
Rurrenabaque - the Pampas and the Jungle - 23 March 2009
Okay dear blog, it has been a while but I really have been busy. I apologise and promise to try and do better! Anyway, last time I checked in we had just come back to La Paz from Uyuni and were planning on spending just one day more in La Paz while we waited to head to Rurrenabaque. Having enjoyed an evening of the nightlife offered in La Paz, the following day we headed out to enjoy an afternoon of wrestling. Yes, truly, wrestling in La Paz - the Cholitas. And what an experience this was. Indigenous women in their traditional clothes, men in various costumes and midgets (yes, I know this may not be the correct term but it is the word they used) and the grand finale 4 men, two dressed in black outfits and two dressed in butchers outfits, complete with big slabs of meat that they were hitting each other (and sometimes members of the audience) with. Difficult to explain how truly spectacular this was but hopefully the photos will do what words cannot. (Tim really should be working on the photos now but since we got in quite early this morning he is having a little rest).
Anyway, with the fun and frivolity out of the way, Monday morning we boarded a bus to Rurrenabaque to begin our exploration of the jungle. Now, before we boarded the bus we knew what was ahead of us given that the bus ride takes in the `most dangerous rode in the world` but my heart still stopped a few times when you looked down and could only see a sheer drop through the jungle several hunderd meters down. Shortly before I made Tim swap seats (I was by the window), we came to a pretty sharp corner and I began to wonder why the driver had stopped all of a sudden and started going backwards - turns out he had misjudged the corner and not all of the bus had remained on the road. What did make me giggle though, was the small house by this corner with the man standing on the verandah - I am sure his sole job in life is to report in when a bus driver doesn`t realise he had taken the corner to wide! Anyway, as I said, I made Tim swap seats, put my ipod on and hoped for the best.
We arrived (safe and sound) in Rurrenabaque at 7.15am the next morning (only 15 minutes behind schedule). What was surprising about this was that we had a flat tire at about midnight that needed to be taken off, repaired and replaced and then ran out of fuel that required another hour delay. I am just glad I slept through it all!
I will begin Rurrenabaque by saying that this was a very nice, small, jungle town. It was hot, humid, wet and full of mossies but had a really great feel to it - luckily. Morning 1 we joined a 4 day Pampas tour along with a Dutch guy (Ramco), a Swiss guy (Rafael) and two girls and a guy from England. Now, I know that theoretically anyone can read this so all I will say is that it wasn`t the best group ever but it probably wasn`t the worst ever. So, we began with a three hour `jeep` journey out to the river, taking in some quite ungraded roads (every jeep had at least one flat tire and some of the potholes required some fairly careful negotiation). Lunch was also in interesting affair, shared with a pig as a footrest and a monkey who enjoyed stealing our food. After lunch entertainment had us watching the monkey `play` with the puppies, who had little chance of escape from the monkeys very long arms, legs and tail!
The rest of the tour passed relatively uneventfully, but allowed us to experience seeing various species of monkeys up close and personal, swimming with dolphins, getting very close to the caimons (each accomodation area has their own resident caimon!), so many amazing varieties of birds that I lost count, including the biggest bird ever who makes its nest in highest tree it can find (the jabiru). Probably one of the most interesting experiences though was hunting for anocondas in swamp water that at times went over your knees. I am still not sure if I feel lucky or not that we didn`t find anything! After 4 days of the heat, humidity and bugs we headed back into Rurrenabaque thinking that we would head back to La Paz and continue our journery onwards to Peru.
As with all good plans though, this one failed to come to fruition. Having experienced the bus ride to Rurre, I was somewhat reluctant to make the return trip and so suggested to Tim that it may be worth giving some thought to flying back. The difficulty, however, with flying from Rurre is that planes don`t go when it is too early, too late, too wet, too windy ... you get the picture. After a couple of days of hanging around we decided that we might as well take off into the jungle for a couple of days and so, along with Ramco and Rafael, we loaded ourselves into one of the local guides boats and went and stayed with his family for a few days in the jungle. Sadly, we didn`t get to see much in the way of animals and other creatures, but we got to visit the local school, spend time with our guides family and sleep in hammocks and we did go on some jungle walks and saw some quite cool scenery.
Arriving back in Rurre we again took our chances on the plane and were again thwarted by the pouring rain. Finally, several days later just as we were down to our last rations (there is no bank in Rurre) we made the last plane out. And back to La Paz. Unfortunately our time in La Paz was again extended for an extra couple of days as I seemed to become affected by altitude sickness. Slightly odd as we had been at altitude for some time and the only thing we could put it down to was the quick assent back from sea level. Anyway, having spent several days in bed with a diet of energy drinks, chicken soup and fresh fruit drinks (La Paz makes the best juices in the world!) we finally made it out of Bolivia and welcomed in April in Lima.
Anyway, with the fun and frivolity out of the way, Monday morning we boarded a bus to Rurrenabaque to begin our exploration of the jungle. Now, before we boarded the bus we knew what was ahead of us given that the bus ride takes in the `most dangerous rode in the world` but my heart still stopped a few times when you looked down and could only see a sheer drop through the jungle several hunderd meters down. Shortly before I made Tim swap seats (I was by the window), we came to a pretty sharp corner and I began to wonder why the driver had stopped all of a sudden and started going backwards - turns out he had misjudged the corner and not all of the bus had remained on the road. What did make me giggle though, was the small house by this corner with the man standing on the verandah - I am sure his sole job in life is to report in when a bus driver doesn`t realise he had taken the corner to wide! Anyway, as I said, I made Tim swap seats, put my ipod on and hoped for the best.
We arrived (safe and sound) in Rurrenabaque at 7.15am the next morning (only 15 minutes behind schedule). What was surprising about this was that we had a flat tire at about midnight that needed to be taken off, repaired and replaced and then ran out of fuel that required another hour delay. I am just glad I slept through it all!
I will begin Rurrenabaque by saying that this was a very nice, small, jungle town. It was hot, humid, wet and full of mossies but had a really great feel to it - luckily. Morning 1 we joined a 4 day Pampas tour along with a Dutch guy (Ramco), a Swiss guy (Rafael) and two girls and a guy from England. Now, I know that theoretically anyone can read this so all I will say is that it wasn`t the best group ever but it probably wasn`t the worst ever. So, we began with a three hour `jeep` journey out to the river, taking in some quite ungraded roads (every jeep had at least one flat tire and some of the potholes required some fairly careful negotiation). Lunch was also in interesting affair, shared with a pig as a footrest and a monkey who enjoyed stealing our food. After lunch entertainment had us watching the monkey `play` with the puppies, who had little chance of escape from the monkeys very long arms, legs and tail!
The rest of the tour passed relatively uneventfully, but allowed us to experience seeing various species of monkeys up close and personal, swimming with dolphins, getting very close to the caimons (each accomodation area has their own resident caimon!), so many amazing varieties of birds that I lost count, including the biggest bird ever who makes its nest in highest tree it can find (the jabiru). Probably one of the most interesting experiences though was hunting for anocondas in swamp water that at times went over your knees. I am still not sure if I feel lucky or not that we didn`t find anything! After 4 days of the heat, humidity and bugs we headed back into Rurrenabaque thinking that we would head back to La Paz and continue our journery onwards to Peru.
As with all good plans though, this one failed to come to fruition. Having experienced the bus ride to Rurre, I was somewhat reluctant to make the return trip and so suggested to Tim that it may be worth giving some thought to flying back. The difficulty, however, with flying from Rurre is that planes don`t go when it is too early, too late, too wet, too windy ... you get the picture. After a couple of days of hanging around we decided that we might as well take off into the jungle for a couple of days and so, along with Ramco and Rafael, we loaded ourselves into one of the local guides boats and went and stayed with his family for a few days in the jungle. Sadly, we didn`t get to see much in the way of animals and other creatures, but we got to visit the local school, spend time with our guides family and sleep in hammocks and we did go on some jungle walks and saw some quite cool scenery.
Arriving back in Rurre we again took our chances on the plane and were again thwarted by the pouring rain. Finally, several days later just as we were down to our last rations (there is no bank in Rurre) we made the last plane out. And back to La Paz. Unfortunately our time in La Paz was again extended for an extra couple of days as I seemed to become affected by altitude sickness. Slightly odd as we had been at altitude for some time and the only thing we could put it down to was the quick assent back from sea level. Anyway, having spent several days in bed with a diet of energy drinks, chicken soup and fresh fruit drinks (La Paz makes the best juices in the world!) we finally made it out of Bolivia and welcomed in April in Lima.
Thursday 9 April 2009
Salar de Uyuni - 17.03.09
Having weighed up the various options we decided that the best mode of transportation was the bus to Oruro followed by the 7 hour train ride to Uyuni, which was infinitely more comfortable than the bus. We arrived at about 10:30pm and were instantly surrounded by people selling their tours into the Salar and so having sourced the best deals and found a hostel we headed to the local burger stand for dinner.
The following morning we joined 11 other people outside the offices of our chosen tour company waited patiently for the 'jeep' that would be our transport for the next 3 days. When our not to old toyota landcruiser arrived we weren´t too disappointed and we piled in with 4 other tourists, the driver and the ´wife´(cook). We considered arguing the point of having to carry the cook on the basis that having one less person would make it slightly more comfortable for the rest but held our tongues on advice received previously by a Swedish couple we met on the Inca trail. They had successfully disputed the cook point only to find themselves firstly surprised when the girls in the group were asked to do the cooking and secondly disappointed when, after they refused, the driver had to do the cooking. As they sat looking at the lavish meals prepared by the cooks in other groups, they had to be satisfied with filling but not particularly tasty meals put together by the driver. And so we departed with 2 chilean boys and a swiss boy who were travelling together and a danish girl Tim and I had met on the bus from Puno and had been hanging out with since.
The salar itself was pretty impressive. It´s hard to make miles and miles of clear white salt sound impressive but as you drove through this desert you really couldn´t help but be transfixed by the view. Our first stop of the day was the Cementerio de Trenes which really was just a great big area of land packed with decaying and rusting trains. And as uninteresting as that sounds for the non-train lover, we actually had loads of fun clambering on the trains and taking photos - it was kind of like being in the playground at a big McDonalds, with loads of exploring to do! Having entertained our childish side here, we moved on through the salar next stopping at the Salt Hotel. The book tells us that this is now an illegal structure because of the pollution caused by people staying there (there are no toilets etc and damage was being done to the salt flats) but I was assured by the people running the place that it is okay to visit the place as a museum. Still, I felt slightly uncomfortable and so only went inside for a second.
Next, we moved on to a place called Isla de los Pescadores which was incredible. It was just a small mountain in this sea of salt with these incredible cacti growing all over it. Here, we also had lunch and were quite pleased to have the cook with us! We continued on through the salar eventually arriving at our resting place for the evening, which was another salt hotel, apparently legal because it is built outside of the actual salar. It was kind of cool to stay somewhere where pretty much everything was made of salt... beds, tables, chairs ...
For us, days 2 and 3 weren´t really as impressive as day 1 because they consisted mostly of lots and lots of driving with stops along the way at some pretty cool lakes and lots of flamingo spotting. Whilst it was still nice to see the lakes and flamingos and other bird and animal life, they were things we had already seen many times so became less impressive. Our final visit on day 3 was at a place called Laguna Verde. I can´t actually tell you anything about the lake because when we arrived it was covered by low cloud and lots and lots of snow! Instead, we had loads of fun building snow men and having snow fights.
There really isn´t much to hold your attention in Uyuni so after arriving back from the tour we got on the first bus out, headed back to La Paz. Now, our decision to catch a bus out was made reluctantly but as the train wasn´t running again for a couple of days we really had no choice. Throughout our travels we had heard many stories of this bus ride including waking up at about 3:00am with the bus on a rather precarious angle and the bus driver telling all the passengers to move to one side of the bus (to stop it falling into the river as he seemed to have misjudged the bridge) along with other stories of passengers having to get out of the buses to push to bus along as it got stuck in the mud. We didn´t experience anything quite so adventurous but again, the difference in bus travel was highlighted.
As we arrived to the street where the buses depart from we were pretty pleased with our choice of bus as we saw a double decker cama bus with our companies logo on the side. Tim wandered off to load the bags and I surveyed the scene. And it was a bit like forgetting to read the small print ... in front of bus 1 was bus 2 and the comfort of bus 1 was not to be ours. We seemed to be the overflow passengers who got to travel on the less than salubrious older brother! Still, it had seats and it wasn´t raining so we set off feeling confident that we would make it in one piece. Shortly into the 12 hour journey we began to understand the difficulties that may face the drivers. There really isn´t much of a road and what is there is quite possibly the bumpiest ground I have ever driven on. Fortunately, I find the bumpy movement quite relaxing and so was soon fast asleep. That is until amid much noise, shouting and light I awoke to find that the bus ceiling had fallen in on me. All that was left were the precariously hanging lights and electrical cords waving above my head. Having extracted a promise from Tim that they wouldn´t fall on me in the night and electrocute me and figuring there wasn´t much else to do, I wrapped myself tightly in my coat and hood and scarf and went back to sleeping soundly until we arrived in La Paz. I have discovered that this is actually the only way to do bus travel in Bolivia - the alternative to sleep is heart attacks and anxiety as you wonder if the next corner could be your last!
Anyway, we eventually (several hours late) arrived in La Paz safe and sound and only slightly shaken up where we spent a day recovering before heading our into the jungle.
Stay tuned for the next installment ...
Take care
Tim and Tracey
The following morning we joined 11 other people outside the offices of our chosen tour company waited patiently for the 'jeep' that would be our transport for the next 3 days. When our not to old toyota landcruiser arrived we weren´t too disappointed and we piled in with 4 other tourists, the driver and the ´wife´(cook). We considered arguing the point of having to carry the cook on the basis that having one less person would make it slightly more comfortable for the rest but held our tongues on advice received previously by a Swedish couple we met on the Inca trail. They had successfully disputed the cook point only to find themselves firstly surprised when the girls in the group were asked to do the cooking and secondly disappointed when, after they refused, the driver had to do the cooking. As they sat looking at the lavish meals prepared by the cooks in other groups, they had to be satisfied with filling but not particularly tasty meals put together by the driver. And so we departed with 2 chilean boys and a swiss boy who were travelling together and a danish girl Tim and I had met on the bus from Puno and had been hanging out with since.
The salar itself was pretty impressive. It´s hard to make miles and miles of clear white salt sound impressive but as you drove through this desert you really couldn´t help but be transfixed by the view. Our first stop of the day was the Cementerio de Trenes which really was just a great big area of land packed with decaying and rusting trains. And as uninteresting as that sounds for the non-train lover, we actually had loads of fun clambering on the trains and taking photos - it was kind of like being in the playground at a big McDonalds, with loads of exploring to do! Having entertained our childish side here, we moved on through the salar next stopping at the Salt Hotel. The book tells us that this is now an illegal structure because of the pollution caused by people staying there (there are no toilets etc and damage was being done to the salt flats) but I was assured by the people running the place that it is okay to visit the place as a museum. Still, I felt slightly uncomfortable and so only went inside for a second.
Next, we moved on to a place called Isla de los Pescadores which was incredible. It was just a small mountain in this sea of salt with these incredible cacti growing all over it. Here, we also had lunch and were quite pleased to have the cook with us! We continued on through the salar eventually arriving at our resting place for the evening, which was another salt hotel, apparently legal because it is built outside of the actual salar. It was kind of cool to stay somewhere where pretty much everything was made of salt... beds, tables, chairs ...
For us, days 2 and 3 weren´t really as impressive as day 1 because they consisted mostly of lots and lots of driving with stops along the way at some pretty cool lakes and lots of flamingo spotting. Whilst it was still nice to see the lakes and flamingos and other bird and animal life, they were things we had already seen many times so became less impressive. Our final visit on day 3 was at a place called Laguna Verde. I can´t actually tell you anything about the lake because when we arrived it was covered by low cloud and lots and lots of snow! Instead, we had loads of fun building snow men and having snow fights.
There really isn´t much to hold your attention in Uyuni so after arriving back from the tour we got on the first bus out, headed back to La Paz. Now, our decision to catch a bus out was made reluctantly but as the train wasn´t running again for a couple of days we really had no choice. Throughout our travels we had heard many stories of this bus ride including waking up at about 3:00am with the bus on a rather precarious angle and the bus driver telling all the passengers to move to one side of the bus (to stop it falling into the river as he seemed to have misjudged the bridge) along with other stories of passengers having to get out of the buses to push to bus along as it got stuck in the mud. We didn´t experience anything quite so adventurous but again, the difference in bus travel was highlighted.
As we arrived to the street where the buses depart from we were pretty pleased with our choice of bus as we saw a double decker cama bus with our companies logo on the side. Tim wandered off to load the bags and I surveyed the scene. And it was a bit like forgetting to read the small print ... in front of bus 1 was bus 2 and the comfort of bus 1 was not to be ours. We seemed to be the overflow passengers who got to travel on the less than salubrious older brother! Still, it had seats and it wasn´t raining so we set off feeling confident that we would make it in one piece. Shortly into the 12 hour journey we began to understand the difficulties that may face the drivers. There really isn´t much of a road and what is there is quite possibly the bumpiest ground I have ever driven on. Fortunately, I find the bumpy movement quite relaxing and so was soon fast asleep. That is until amid much noise, shouting and light I awoke to find that the bus ceiling had fallen in on me. All that was left were the precariously hanging lights and electrical cords waving above my head. Having extracted a promise from Tim that they wouldn´t fall on me in the night and electrocute me and figuring there wasn´t much else to do, I wrapped myself tightly in my coat and hood and scarf and went back to sleeping soundly until we arrived in La Paz. I have discovered that this is actually the only way to do bus travel in Bolivia - the alternative to sleep is heart attacks and anxiety as you wonder if the next corner could be your last!
Anyway, we eventually (several hours late) arrived in La Paz safe and sound and only slightly shaken up where we spent a day recovering before heading our into the jungle.
Stay tuned for the next installment ...
Take care
Tim and Tracey
Puno, Lake Titicaca and on to La Paz - 11.03.09
We arrived in Puno bright and early and started doing the rounds of hostels, looking for the cheapest option. Having found our home for the next couple of nights we set out in search of a tour that would take in the best of Lake Titicaca, which was of course, our reason for being in Puno.
Feeling slightly disappointed with the one size fits all tours we headed down to the port so see what else we could find. On our way we stumbled across a tour agency that was able to offer more of what we wanted, so satisfied with our plans for the next two days we headed back into town to check out the local area.
Day 2 in Puno and we had a civilised beginning to the day, being picked up at 9:00am to start our tour of the islands of Lake Titicaca. Our first stop was one of the Uros Islands - the so called Islas Flotantes (floating islands), that are made entirely of reeds. They are called the floating islands because, originally, they did just that. Nowadays though they are well anchored so no more floating. It was interesting to hear how the islands are constructed and see a short demonstration (yes, the need for the tourism dollar is alive and well even on these tiny islands) and to take a ride in a reed boat. After our first island visit, Tim and I were dropped off at another Uros Island which was to be our home for the evening. We arrived in the early afternoon and there was really nothing to do so we spent the afternoon sitting in the sun reading. The island we stayed on was probably the most developed with a little shop (made of reeds) that was also the restaurant and kitchen and eating area for the families who live on this island. There were a few small 'cabins', also made of reeds, one of which we slept in, a few small houses, occupied by the few resident families as well as two areas of water where they seemed to be breeding trout and kingfish.
We were picked up at about 9:00am the following morning and continued on to check out another island - Isla Taquille. There wasn´t really much to do on this small island and tourist services aren´t hugely developed, which was nice because it meant you could look in the shop at the traditionally made items without lots of hassle. After walking around the island and having lunch we began our long departure back to Puno.
Our last night in Puno was quite fun. We went to a restaurant for dinner and were thoroughly entertained by the traditional music and dancing and really nice food. Early the next day we boarded a bus for Copacabana, Bolivia, to check out their side of Lake Titicaca.
Other than the rather confusing border crossing the bus ride to Copacabana was pretty uneventful, however, after arriving to grey skies and rain and a pretty dismal forecast we decided that the best thing to do was get on the next bus to La Paz - we had no real desire to spend a day or two touring islands in the rain so moving on seemed the next best option.
And here begins our first real experience of bus rides in Bolivia. Tim and I were one of the last ones on the bus so ended up on two seats right at the very back. On taking our seats we realised why they were empty - they were soaked through and the rain was still dripping through the roof. I requested a towel or something to cover the seat and the lady disappeared for so long I had given up hope (as the bus was driving off) when she appeared with a large bundle of blankets. Having made sure that my raincoat was securely fastened and the seats were well covered with the blankets we settled down for the 4 (or so) hour journey to La Paz. Other than the occasional rain shower the rest of the journey passed without incident.
Arriving in La Paz late in the afternoon we were able to see the city from above as we came down through the mountains. It really does make an impressive site with the surrounding snow capped mountains. Other than that, there really isn´t much more to say about La Paz. It´s another big city with lots of pollution and loads of people. We checked our the local sights and got ourselves onto a bus / train to Uyuni for a tour of Solar de Uyuni (salt flats), which were pretty impressive.
But more on that later.
Take care
Tim and Tracey
Feeling slightly disappointed with the one size fits all tours we headed down to the port so see what else we could find. On our way we stumbled across a tour agency that was able to offer more of what we wanted, so satisfied with our plans for the next two days we headed back into town to check out the local area.
Day 2 in Puno and we had a civilised beginning to the day, being picked up at 9:00am to start our tour of the islands of Lake Titicaca. Our first stop was one of the Uros Islands - the so called Islas Flotantes (floating islands), that are made entirely of reeds. They are called the floating islands because, originally, they did just that. Nowadays though they are well anchored so no more floating. It was interesting to hear how the islands are constructed and see a short demonstration (yes, the need for the tourism dollar is alive and well even on these tiny islands) and to take a ride in a reed boat. After our first island visit, Tim and I were dropped off at another Uros Island which was to be our home for the evening. We arrived in the early afternoon and there was really nothing to do so we spent the afternoon sitting in the sun reading. The island we stayed on was probably the most developed with a little shop (made of reeds) that was also the restaurant and kitchen and eating area for the families who live on this island. There were a few small 'cabins', also made of reeds, one of which we slept in, a few small houses, occupied by the few resident families as well as two areas of water where they seemed to be breeding trout and kingfish.
We were picked up at about 9:00am the following morning and continued on to check out another island - Isla Taquille. There wasn´t really much to do on this small island and tourist services aren´t hugely developed, which was nice because it meant you could look in the shop at the traditionally made items without lots of hassle. After walking around the island and having lunch we began our long departure back to Puno.
Our last night in Puno was quite fun. We went to a restaurant for dinner and were thoroughly entertained by the traditional music and dancing and really nice food. Early the next day we boarded a bus for Copacabana, Bolivia, to check out their side of Lake Titicaca.
Other than the rather confusing border crossing the bus ride to Copacabana was pretty uneventful, however, after arriving to grey skies and rain and a pretty dismal forecast we decided that the best thing to do was get on the next bus to La Paz - we had no real desire to spend a day or two touring islands in the rain so moving on seemed the next best option.
And here begins our first real experience of bus rides in Bolivia. Tim and I were one of the last ones on the bus so ended up on two seats right at the very back. On taking our seats we realised why they were empty - they were soaked through and the rain was still dripping through the roof. I requested a towel or something to cover the seat and the lady disappeared for so long I had given up hope (as the bus was driving off) when she appeared with a large bundle of blankets. Having made sure that my raincoat was securely fastened and the seats were well covered with the blankets we settled down for the 4 (or so) hour journey to La Paz. Other than the occasional rain shower the rest of the journey passed without incident.
Arriving in La Paz late in the afternoon we were able to see the city from above as we came down through the mountains. It really does make an impressive site with the surrounding snow capped mountains. Other than that, there really isn´t much more to say about La Paz. It´s another big city with lots of pollution and loads of people. We checked our the local sights and got ourselves onto a bus / train to Uyuni for a tour of Solar de Uyuni (salt flats), which were pretty impressive.
But more on that later.
Take care
Tim and Tracey
Tuesday 7 April 2009
Arrive in Cusco - 03.03.09
We finally made it to Cusco, arriving at about 6:00am and heading straight to the hostel where we got lucky surprising the staff, who only had the door open to let somone out. We made our way in, organised our dirty washing, had breakfast and headed out for some exploring. First stop, confirm the trek. This was more difficult than it sounds. To begin, the office had moved and we didn´t have the new address. The old address gave us some directions to the new address, which seemed to be a long way from the main square and all the other tour operators. Anyway, after much walking and searching we found the office, made our confirmations and as this had taken up most of the day, we headed back to the hostel for an afternoon nap.
The first thing to realise about Cusco is that, in terms of travel, it really exists for Machu Piccu and other Inca sites. The level of tourism here is incredible and you are simply not left alone for a minute by the tour touts. I guess one of the key impacts for those who make Cusco their home is that they must get increasingly frustrated at having their city invaded and for us this translated into encountering some of the least friendly and most harrased local people so far. Essentially, we just wanted to get out as fast as possible! Despite that, Cusco does have some incredible sites and one of these (or three) is the Cathedral, the Church of Jesus Maria and El Triunfo, Cusco´s oldest church. These three buildings are actually joined and we spent a good couple of hours, with informative headsets in absolute awe of the beauty of this place. The architectural structure, the history, the paintings, the silver and general decoration was incredible. There was a painting of the last supper with a 'cuy' (roast guinea pig) as the central feature, an alter covered completely in silver and a hand carved 17th century choir, among so many other features. This place was definately worth the visit.
Our third day in Cusco, and the day before we started our trek, we took a tour of the Sacred Valley. This was a bit of a rushed tour but did allow us to see some of the 'other' Inca ruins and check out some villages on the way.
Finally, the day dawned (well, not quite because we were picked up before dawn but ...) and we headed out, excited about the trip ahead and the idea of seeing one of the world´s most famous landmarks up close and personal.
Our group consisted of 16 tourists, 1 guide, 1 assistant guide and 21 porters. We had 2 Aussies (us), 6 Swedes, 2 Norwegians, 3 Americans, 2 Canadians and 1 Brit, with a mix of ages. As with all group activities people had varying levels of fitness and ability and so the group didn´t really stay together on much of the trek but breakfast, lunch and dinner were always entertaining and we were lucky to have a good group.
Day one involved lots of 'officialdom'; paperwork to be completed, borders to be passed etc. When we actually got going, we spent the first part of the walk on easy tracks with lots of stopping to check out the wildlife, explore some ruins and generally get lots of information from the guides about the local area. Then we stopped for lunch and were in for a real suprise. When we arrived at the lunch spot, the tent was erected, the chairs and cutlery were in place and we were served a three course meal that made the afternoon walk quite difficult! Given that our experience of trekking and camping when its just us is slightly different (ie. pasta with a tomato sauce poured over) we were pretty happy with how things were turning out! A relatively easy walk follwed lunch onto camp where again we were greeted by another lovely suprise - tents were up, snacks were served and dinner was on its way - this is civilised camping!
A bit of rain through the night left us feeling slightly concerned about what awaited us on day 2 but luck held out and the rain had departed. We were up early for the second and most difficult of the days. Following a hearty breakfast of quinoa, fruit, toast, pancakes and mate de coco we headed off, with instructions of the first meeting place. We agreed that given the size of the group, the different levels of ability and the difficulty of the day we wouldn´t stay together as a group and we wouldn´t stop for lunch, instead we would have sandwiches which we could eat as and when we chose, arriving at the days camp site in time for a later lunch. This turned out to be an excellent idea. The highest pass of the day was 4200 metres and although the walk was not long (maybe 40 minutes) it was steep and breathless and difficult. Having made it to the top (and may I say, rather speedily) we thought the worst of it was over but, as with most things, what goes up must come down and down and down ... Anyone who says that walking down hill is easier than up has never really been down a hill!! We arrived at camp at about 2:00pm that afternoon and spent a lazy afternoon sleeping and then chatting with Stion and Trina (Norwegian couple). About 2 hours later the next part of our group arrived and about another 1 hour later the rest straggled in. By now, we were cold and hungry and were ever so relieved when the guide said we would eat now (lunch!), rather than waiting for the final two group members - who subsequently arrived about 5 hours after our original arrival!
That night it rained like I have never experienced rain - it really sounded like glass was raining down on us and I was filled with trepidation as we awoke early for our final day - but again, our luck held and the rain disappeared. Although not as difficult as day 2, day 3 still meant a consistent up hill walk for most of the day but what made day 3 almost easy was the most incredible, breath taking, awe inspiring views imaginable (I know, I need to work on my descriptions). We spent the day mostly walking with Stion and Trina and had a really great day just enjoying the view, laughing lots and taking great photos (Tim is working on getting these on the blog as we speak). Having reached the day 3 pass with not to much time difference within the group it was really cool to just be the only people (other groups would come later) taking in the never ending views of mountain, sky and forest. It was also nice to achieve this level with the group, rather than individually. And then came the inevitable - the down hill run to camp. Well, having watched the porters literally run down the thousands of stairs the day before, we figured there has to be something in it. So we followed suit. And the difference it made was incredible. Obviously we weren´t quite as fast as the porters but for us time wasn´t actually the issue, the issue at hand was the pain in your knees from such a descent. The difference from one day to the next was amazing. I can highly recomend, on such downhill descents, go as quickly as you safely can and your knees will thank you!
The final nights camp was really luxurious with warm showers (if you wanted) and cold beers from the nearby restaurant. And knowing that the walk the next day was relatively short we had our first late night of the trek (about 8:30pm) before being up and back on the trail by 5:00am the next morning, waiting for the gates to open and the two hour walk to the Sun Gate, with everyone praying for sun and no low cloud. This walk was tough. Hundreds of people all leaving at the same time, heading for the same place, but not all walking at the same pace. Overtaking was not easy and it really is difficult walking at someone else´s pace. The final stage was the killer. Maybe 20 steps, ranging between 1/2 and 1 metre in height had people faltering at the final gate. But eventually we got there and again our luck remained - the sun was up and the cloud was high, providing us with an uninterupted view of Machu Piccu from above. As we spent the next few hours walking around, we couldn´t help but question how they managed to achieve these structures. The rocks, the steepness, the lack of machinery - how did they do this??
The first thing to realise about Cusco is that, in terms of travel, it really exists for Machu Piccu and other Inca sites. The level of tourism here is incredible and you are simply not left alone for a minute by the tour touts. I guess one of the key impacts for those who make Cusco their home is that they must get increasingly frustrated at having their city invaded and for us this translated into encountering some of the least friendly and most harrased local people so far. Essentially, we just wanted to get out as fast as possible! Despite that, Cusco does have some incredible sites and one of these (or three) is the Cathedral, the Church of Jesus Maria and El Triunfo, Cusco´s oldest church. These three buildings are actually joined and we spent a good couple of hours, with informative headsets in absolute awe of the beauty of this place. The architectural structure, the history, the paintings, the silver and general decoration was incredible. There was a painting of the last supper with a 'cuy' (roast guinea pig) as the central feature, an alter covered completely in silver and a hand carved 17th century choir, among so many other features. This place was definately worth the visit.
Our third day in Cusco, and the day before we started our trek, we took a tour of the Sacred Valley. This was a bit of a rushed tour but did allow us to see some of the 'other' Inca ruins and check out some villages on the way.
Finally, the day dawned (well, not quite because we were picked up before dawn but ...) and we headed out, excited about the trip ahead and the idea of seeing one of the world´s most famous landmarks up close and personal.
Our group consisted of 16 tourists, 1 guide, 1 assistant guide and 21 porters. We had 2 Aussies (us), 6 Swedes, 2 Norwegians, 3 Americans, 2 Canadians and 1 Brit, with a mix of ages. As with all group activities people had varying levels of fitness and ability and so the group didn´t really stay together on much of the trek but breakfast, lunch and dinner were always entertaining and we were lucky to have a good group.
Day one involved lots of 'officialdom'; paperwork to be completed, borders to be passed etc. When we actually got going, we spent the first part of the walk on easy tracks with lots of stopping to check out the wildlife, explore some ruins and generally get lots of information from the guides about the local area. Then we stopped for lunch and were in for a real suprise. When we arrived at the lunch spot, the tent was erected, the chairs and cutlery were in place and we were served a three course meal that made the afternoon walk quite difficult! Given that our experience of trekking and camping when its just us is slightly different (ie. pasta with a tomato sauce poured over) we were pretty happy with how things were turning out! A relatively easy walk follwed lunch onto camp where again we were greeted by another lovely suprise - tents were up, snacks were served and dinner was on its way - this is civilised camping!
A bit of rain through the night left us feeling slightly concerned about what awaited us on day 2 but luck held out and the rain had departed. We were up early for the second and most difficult of the days. Following a hearty breakfast of quinoa, fruit, toast, pancakes and mate de coco we headed off, with instructions of the first meeting place. We agreed that given the size of the group, the different levels of ability and the difficulty of the day we wouldn´t stay together as a group and we wouldn´t stop for lunch, instead we would have sandwiches which we could eat as and when we chose, arriving at the days camp site in time for a later lunch. This turned out to be an excellent idea. The highest pass of the day was 4200 metres and although the walk was not long (maybe 40 minutes) it was steep and breathless and difficult. Having made it to the top (and may I say, rather speedily) we thought the worst of it was over but, as with most things, what goes up must come down and down and down ... Anyone who says that walking down hill is easier than up has never really been down a hill!! We arrived at camp at about 2:00pm that afternoon and spent a lazy afternoon sleeping and then chatting with Stion and Trina (Norwegian couple). About 2 hours later the next part of our group arrived and about another 1 hour later the rest straggled in. By now, we were cold and hungry and were ever so relieved when the guide said we would eat now (lunch!), rather than waiting for the final two group members - who subsequently arrived about 5 hours after our original arrival!
That night it rained like I have never experienced rain - it really sounded like glass was raining down on us and I was filled with trepidation as we awoke early for our final day - but again, our luck held and the rain disappeared. Although not as difficult as day 2, day 3 still meant a consistent up hill walk for most of the day but what made day 3 almost easy was the most incredible, breath taking, awe inspiring views imaginable (I know, I need to work on my descriptions). We spent the day mostly walking with Stion and Trina and had a really great day just enjoying the view, laughing lots and taking great photos (Tim is working on getting these on the blog as we speak). Having reached the day 3 pass with not to much time difference within the group it was really cool to just be the only people (other groups would come later) taking in the never ending views of mountain, sky and forest. It was also nice to achieve this level with the group, rather than individually. And then came the inevitable - the down hill run to camp. Well, having watched the porters literally run down the thousands of stairs the day before, we figured there has to be something in it. So we followed suit. And the difference it made was incredible. Obviously we weren´t quite as fast as the porters but for us time wasn´t actually the issue, the issue at hand was the pain in your knees from such a descent. The difference from one day to the next was amazing. I can highly recomend, on such downhill descents, go as quickly as you safely can and your knees will thank you!
The final nights camp was really luxurious with warm showers (if you wanted) and cold beers from the nearby restaurant. And knowing that the walk the next day was relatively short we had our first late night of the trek (about 8:30pm) before being up and back on the trail by 5:00am the next morning, waiting for the gates to open and the two hour walk to the Sun Gate, with everyone praying for sun and no low cloud. This walk was tough. Hundreds of people all leaving at the same time, heading for the same place, but not all walking at the same pace. Overtaking was not easy and it really is difficult walking at someone else´s pace. The final stage was the killer. Maybe 20 steps, ranging between 1/2 and 1 metre in height had people faltering at the final gate. But eventually we got there and again our luck remained - the sun was up and the cloud was high, providing us with an uninterupted view of Machu Piccu from above. As we spent the next few hours walking around, we couldn´t help but question how they managed to achieve these structures. The rocks, the steepness, the lack of machinery - how did they do this??
View of Machu Piccu from the Sun Gate
Feeling pleasantly exhausted, we headed down to the local town (Agua Calientes) for lunch, hot springs and where Tim and I were going to spend the night. After a lazy night, we headed back to Cusco for dinner with a couple from the trek and the night bus to Puno.
Before I leave this blog, I have to make special mention of the porters on the trek. 21 men carried enough food for 16 tourists, guides and themselves (and we are talking decent food, no pasta and tomato sauce here), tents for the 16 tourists and guides along with the cooking tent and eating tent (which they slept in) and all necessary cooking equipment. They went quicker than us, they were always smiling, chatting and laughing with each other and just generally amazed us with the weight they carried and how they carried it - no technically advanced backpacks or specially made hiking boots or walking poles. Truly incredible.
And that was Machu Piccu and the Inca trail. Definately worth the money, time and effort.
Hope you are all well and healthy and enjoying our tales.
Take care
Tim and Tracey
Arica to Tacna - 27.02.09
Now our whirlwind tour of Chile comes to an end and we board the train in Arica to take us across the border into Tacna and then board a bus for a place called Arequipa. As far as border towns go, neither Arica nor Tacna are that bad but not really places were we would want to spend much time.
Arequipa however is really a lovely town. Lots of tour and travel agents asking for your attention but not in the same offensive, in your face manner as we have experienced in other places. Had a bit of a lazy day today, just organising a trip to nearby Colca Canyon and checking out the Monasterio Santa Catalina, which occupies a whole block and is a 'citadel within a city'. This place is over 600 years old and at one time housed Spanish nuns from the wealthiest of families so the nuns had houses built within the monasterio and generally had a minimum of three 'staff' to take care of all the mundane chores of cooking, cleaning, washing etc. The nuns entered the monasterio at about 13 years of age and never left; only having occaisonal contact with their families through a solid brick wall with a few bars allowing them to see each other (not so different from a prison really). Other girls, as young as three years old, entered the monasterio for their education but then never actually left! Today, it is still a convent but houses much fewer nuns who enter at about 18 years of age. Inside though, it really was like a small town. Each nun had their own house, there was a bakery, fruit trees, water - everything needed so that the nuns never had to leave.
Day 2 in Arequipa was slightly different. We were collected by bus at about 4:00am and headed off to the Colca Canyon (Cañon del Colca) which is one of the world's deepest canyons at 3191 metres. Our first stop of the morning was at the Cruz del Condor, home for the Andean Condor. We only managed to see one that morning but it was pretty spectacular to see this huge bird flying so high and so protected from predators (ie, humans!). The bus then dropped Tim, me, Marcus (a Swiss guy) and our guide off to begin our two day trek in and out of the canyon. Now, you may recall that just a few days ago Tim had injured his back to such a point that he could barely stand or breathe, let alone carry his pack. The imagination doesn't have to stretch far to realise who the poor sucker was then that had to carry the pack, with enough warm clothes, bedding and raingear for the two days for both of us. By the time we had completed the 3 hour, rather steep (remember this canyon is 3191 metres down!!) downhill part of the trek I could barely walk, was almost in tears and would have gladly pushed Tim over the edge if only we weren't already at the bottom! Anyway, after I calmly (!) explained to him the situation he agreed to carry the pack for a while. Camp for the evening was a place called the Oasis and it really was. Natural spring pools in an oasis of green and palm trees which made such a striking contrast to the colours of the canyon.
Day 2 of the trek dawned bright and early (5:00am start) and the inevitable climb out of the canyon (again remember 3191 metres ...). After 2 1/2 hours I finally reached the top and I was truly exhausted. Just over half way up I had even tried hitchhiking a lift with a passing mule but to no avail. And just as I was congratulating myself on having made it without tears, swearing or threatening to kill Tim, the guide, Marcus or the passing Mule, the guide took off again on the final leg of the trip back for breakfast and the bus back.
At the time and even looking back with rose coloured glasses, I can honestly say that this was, without doubt the most physically and mentally demanding thing that I have ever done, everything since has simply not been comparable. My toenails are still an attractive purple colour and I am not sure they will ever recover! It was beautiful though - just wait 'til you see the photos!!
The adventure didn't end there though. Having thought that the tour would have us back in Arequipa by 6:00pm, we confidently booked our tickets for the next leg of our journey to Cusco, to begin the Inca trek. (It was at this point that I told Tim that following the Inca trail I was never again walking anywhere and any future mode of transport would involve me sitting). Anyway, on the way back from the Canyon our bus broke down and we eventually made it back to Arequipa at 8:00pm, in time for our bus to board. Unfortunately, we still had to get back to the hostel, collect the rest of our bags and make our way to the bus station. Luckily for us we had a great bus driver who clearly explained the dilema to the taxi driver who managed to get us there in record time and we found ourselves settled on our overnight trip to Cusco with seconds to spare. Dirty, stinky and tired but on our way.
That about sums up our first few days in Peru and next comes the truly magnificent Inca trail.
take care
Tim and Tracey
Arequipa however is really a lovely town. Lots of tour and travel agents asking for your attention but not in the same offensive, in your face manner as we have experienced in other places. Had a bit of a lazy day today, just organising a trip to nearby Colca Canyon and checking out the Monasterio Santa Catalina, which occupies a whole block and is a 'citadel within a city'. This place is over 600 years old and at one time housed Spanish nuns from the wealthiest of families so the nuns had houses built within the monasterio and generally had a minimum of three 'staff' to take care of all the mundane chores of cooking, cleaning, washing etc. The nuns entered the monasterio at about 13 years of age and never left; only having occaisonal contact with their families through a solid brick wall with a few bars allowing them to see each other (not so different from a prison really). Other girls, as young as three years old, entered the monasterio for their education but then never actually left! Today, it is still a convent but houses much fewer nuns who enter at about 18 years of age. Inside though, it really was like a small town. Each nun had their own house, there was a bakery, fruit trees, water - everything needed so that the nuns never had to leave.
Day 2 in Arequipa was slightly different. We were collected by bus at about 4:00am and headed off to the Colca Canyon (Cañon del Colca) which is one of the world's deepest canyons at 3191 metres. Our first stop of the morning was at the Cruz del Condor, home for the Andean Condor. We only managed to see one that morning but it was pretty spectacular to see this huge bird flying so high and so protected from predators (ie, humans!). The bus then dropped Tim, me, Marcus (a Swiss guy) and our guide off to begin our two day trek in and out of the canyon. Now, you may recall that just a few days ago Tim had injured his back to such a point that he could barely stand or breathe, let alone carry his pack. The imagination doesn't have to stretch far to realise who the poor sucker was then that had to carry the pack, with enough warm clothes, bedding and raingear for the two days for both of us. By the time we had completed the 3 hour, rather steep (remember this canyon is 3191 metres down!!) downhill part of the trek I could barely walk, was almost in tears and would have gladly pushed Tim over the edge if only we weren't already at the bottom! Anyway, after I calmly (!) explained to him the situation he agreed to carry the pack for a while. Camp for the evening was a place called the Oasis and it really was. Natural spring pools in an oasis of green and palm trees which made such a striking contrast to the colours of the canyon.
Day 2 of the trek dawned bright and early (5:00am start) and the inevitable climb out of the canyon (again remember 3191 metres ...). After 2 1/2 hours I finally reached the top and I was truly exhausted. Just over half way up I had even tried hitchhiking a lift with a passing mule but to no avail. And just as I was congratulating myself on having made it without tears, swearing or threatening to kill Tim, the guide, Marcus or the passing Mule, the guide took off again on the final leg of the trip back for breakfast and the bus back.
At the time and even looking back with rose coloured glasses, I can honestly say that this was, without doubt the most physically and mentally demanding thing that I have ever done, everything since has simply not been comparable. My toenails are still an attractive purple colour and I am not sure they will ever recover! It was beautiful though - just wait 'til you see the photos!!
The adventure didn't end there though. Having thought that the tour would have us back in Arequipa by 6:00pm, we confidently booked our tickets for the next leg of our journey to Cusco, to begin the Inca trek. (It was at this point that I told Tim that following the Inca trail I was never again walking anywhere and any future mode of transport would involve me sitting). Anyway, on the way back from the Canyon our bus broke down and we eventually made it back to Arequipa at 8:00pm, in time for our bus to board. Unfortunately, we still had to get back to the hostel, collect the rest of our bags and make our way to the bus station. Luckily for us we had a great bus driver who clearly explained the dilema to the taxi driver who managed to get us there in record time and we found ourselves settled on our overnight trip to Cusco with seconds to spare. Dirty, stinky and tired but on our way.
That about sums up our first few days in Peru and next comes the truly magnificent Inca trail.
take care
Tim and Tracey
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